Cupid's Arrow Part II

 Hello Everyone!

This week we are sewing the lovely star crossed block. 

First, let's cut out pieces.  I used three different fat quarters plus the full width of fabric (WOF) white background for this block. My fat quarters had a lot of amazing color variation in them which gave dimension to my blocks. I am very happy with how they came out.  I am still working from the Island Batik Flower Pot group. Where I indicate 22" as the width, I am simply cutting the width of the fat qarter. It coud be 21 or 21 1/2" or 22 1/2". It doesn't matter.  There is plenty of fabric.

WOF - Width of Fabric   HST - Half Square Triangle    QST - Quarter Square Triangle

RST - Right Sides Together

Background:   Cut (4) 2 1/2" x WOF.  Subcut (64) 2 1/2" squares

                        Cut (1) 3 1/2" x WOF.  Subcut (8) 3 1/2" squares (for QST units)

                        Cut (3) 3" x WOF.  Subcut (32) 3" squares  (for HST units)

Sprig With Small Daisy:  Cut (5) 3" x 22"    Subcut (32) 3" squares (for star point HST units)

Petals Red Daiquiri:    Cut (2) x 22"    Subcut (8) 3 1/2" squares (for QST units)

                                    Cut (3) 3" x 22"    Subcut (16) 3" squares

Thyme w/Daisies Multi:  Cut (5) 2 1/2" x 22"    Subcut (40) 2 1/2" squares

Step1:  HST Units - We will make thes the same way we did for the LOVE blocks. Gather (32) Background squres and (32) Sprig with Small Daisy.  Draw a line on the back of the Background squares or even easier, udse your magic want. Place RST on the Sprig with Small Daisy blocks and sew 1/4" to either side of the line or if using a magic wand, sew on the lines. Cut apart through the center then press open to the dark. Square each to 2 1/2" square.  (64) HST units made.

Step 2:  QST Units - We start out with HST units then divide the block once more to create the QST unit. Gather (8) 3 1/2" Background squres nd (8) 3 1/2" Petals Red Daiquiri.  Follow the same technique as Step 1 to create (16 HST units. Gather the (3) Petals Red Daiquiri squares. Draw a line on the back same as we have done for the HST units. Place it RST on top of the HST units just created. The lines that you will be sewing should cross the seam, so in other words, the new seams will be perpindicular to the seam on the HST forming a cross. Sew then cut apart.  Square these units to 2 1/2". (32) QST units made.

Draw a line and sew 1/4" to each side or use the Magic Wand to draw sew line

Sew then cut the HST units apart between the seam lines.

Press open to the dark. Place the 3" square on top of the HST just made and draw a line or use the Magic Wand to draw sew line. The new seam crosses the seam on the HST. You seams will be like an X

Sew the same as the HST units then cut apart.  Press to the dark. Square the QST unit to 2 1/2".

Step 3:  Layout all the remaining squares, the HST units and the QST uits into rows as below.  Using a 1/4" seam allowance, sew each row together. Press your seams as per the diagram below, Join your rows together and press as indicated below.  Make (8) Blocks.  Square your blocks as needed to 10 1/2" being careful not to lose your points.

Voila!  Our Star Crossed Block is complete. Next week we will make hearts and arrows! 

Cupid's Arrow Sew-Along Part 1

 Cupid's Arrow Sew-Along

Hello Friends!

Today we start our fun Valentine's Day Sew Along. We will be making this cute little lap quilt or wall hanging in 4 different sessions.  The quilt is 58" x 58" so easy to manage and has a few simple blocks. But I'll try to show you some fun shortcuts and tips as we sew along.

I made mine super scrappy using a variety of fat quarters, about 10 different ones and 3 yards of background. You could certainly do it with a more planned pallete. So 1 yard each of two reds/pinks, a 1/2 yard of complementary like my teal and a 1/2 yard of gold would do it.  Island Batik gave me this great fat quarter bundle called Flower Pot so I pulled my colors from that. They also gave me the fabulous white background batik.

So for the first week we are going to make the four letter blocks. Easy Peasy!

I will be using 2 different fat quarters and full bolt width background fabric.

Background:  Cut (3) 2 1/2" x WOF strips   

                        Subcut from strips (16) 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" rectangles,  (1) 2 1/2" square

                        Cut (1) 3" x WOF strip.  Subcut (3) 3" squares, (2) 1 1/2" x 4 1/2", (3) 1 1/2" squares

                        Cut (1) 4 1/2" square   Cut (2) 4" squares

Pink/Red Fat Quarter: Cut (2) 2 1/2" x 22" strip.  Subcut from strips (16)  2 1/2" squares

Blue/Green Fat Quarter: (1)  3" x 22" strip.  Subcut (3) 3" squares

                                        (2)  2 1/2" x 22" strip.  Subcut (5) 2 1/2" squares, (2) 2 1/2" x 6 1/2"

                                        (1)  2" x 22" strip.  Subcut (2) 2" x 4 1/2" rectangles

                                        (1) 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" rectangles

                                        Cut (2) 4" squares

Now that we have all out pieces cut, let's make the components needed for the letters then we can go right to assembly.  

First we need to make some half square triangle units (HST) for the letters L. O and V.  Locate the 3" background squares, the 3" blue/green squares, the 4" background squares and the 4" blue/green squares.  You can draw a diagonal line corner to corner on the back of the background squares and sew 1/4" to either side of the line or if you have a Studio 180 Magic Wand, line it up corner to corner and draw the sew lines. I like this method better as I find it to be more accurate than sewing a quarter inch to either side of a drawn line. You can also skip drawing any lines if you use the diagonal seam tape on your machine. It gives you the perfect guide for feeding in squares on point. Whichever method you choose, go ahead and sew then cut apart between the stitch lines. Press open to the dark fabric. Square as needed to 2 1/2" and 3 1/2".  You should have (6) of the 2 1/2" and (4) of the 3 1/2" HST units made.

Next we can add our cornerstone squares to the top and bottom block sashing pieces so they will be ready to use. Gather (16) Pink/Red 2 1/2" squares and (8) 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" background rectangles. I like to chain sew for efficiency whenever possible and this is a great place to do so. Place a Red/Pink square RST on a background rectangle. Line up the edges and sew using a 1/4" seam. Repeat this for all 16 units. Do not cut the chains yet. Simply turn the last piece in the machine around and sew squares to the remaining end. Press all seams in toward the background fabric.

Now we have all the pieces we need to assemble the letters so we will start with 'L'.  Gather (2) top and bottom sashing units with the Red/Pink squares, (2) 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" background rectangles, (1) 4 1/2" background sqyuare, (1) Blue/Green 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" rectangle, (1) Blue/Green 2 1/2" square and one of the Blue/Green HST units you made.

For this block, as we will for all of the blocks, we will sew the center pieces then work our way out to the sashing. 

1)    Sew the 2 1/2" Blue Green square to the HST unit. Press the seam to the square

2)    Sew the 4 1/2" background square to the top of assemble just made in Step 1. Press to the                       background square.

3)    Sew the Blue/Green 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" rectangle to the left side of the Step 2 assembly. Press out 

       to the Blue/Green rectangle.

4)    Sew a backround 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" to both the right and the left sides of the Step 3 assembly.  

       Press out to the background sashing.

5)    Sew a sashing strip with Red/Pink cornerstones to the top and the bottom. Press out to the 

        sashing strips.

6)    Press your block well so it is nice and flat. It should measure 10 1/2" square.

Next in line is the 'O' block. this one is super easy.  Gather (4) Blue/Green 2 1/2" squares as well as (4) 2 1/2" HST units.  You will also need a background 2 1/2" square, 2 of the 2 1/2" x 6 1//2" sashing rectangles as well as a top and bottom sashing piece with the Red/Pink squares.  Ignore my mistake in the layout below, I have an HST turned the wrong way LOL! So be sure to turn that lower right one the correct way.

1)    Sew an HST unit to each side of a Blue/Green 2 1/2" square. Press in toward the center square.                Make two rows like this.  (top and bottom of the 'O')

2)    Sew the remaining (2) Blue/Green 2 1/2" squares to each side of  the 2 1/2" background 

       square. Press out to the Blue/Green squares.

3)    Sew the rows from steps 1 and 2 together.  Press in to the center row.

4)    Sew a 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" sashing strip to each side of the center unit made in Step 3.Press out to 

        the sashing strips.

5)    Sew a sashing strip with Red/Pink cornerstones to the top and the bottom. Press out to the 

        sashing strips.

6)    Press your block well so it is nice and flat. It should measure 10 1/2" square.

Ok we are moving right along to 'V' block.  This one is also super easy. Gather the (4) 3 1/2" HST units, (2) 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" background sashing strips and (2) of the top and bottom sashing strips with the Red/Pink corners.

In order for our seams to nest, repress (2) the HST units away from the dark toward the background. I could of done these as flying geese but didn't think of it until I had already cut everything. Oh well!  HST units are easy.

1)    Sew the HST units together as shown in the picture. Be sure to pair them with seams going

         in opposite directions. You will have two rows made.

2)    Press one seam to the right and one to the left then sew the rows together as shown above.

3)    Sew a 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" sashing strip to each side of the center unit made in Step 3.Press out to 

        the sashing strips.

4)     Sew a sashing strip with Red/Pink cornerstones to the top and the bottom. Press out to the 

        sashing strips.

5)    Press your block well so it is nice and flat. It should measure 10 1/2" square.  That was easy!

Last but not least we have the 'E' block. This one has a few more pieces but is easy as well.  Gather (3) background 1 1/2" squares, (2) background 1 1/2" x 4 1/2" rectangles, (1) 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" Blue/Green rectangle, (2) 2" x 4 1/2" Blue/Green rectangles, (1) 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" Blue/Green rectangle, the remaining (2) background sashing pieces and the remaining (2) top and bottom sashing pieces.

We we are going to make some folded corners first. These are very easy if you have never done them. Sometimes people call it 'snow balling' the corner but folded corner is more accurate.

Take (2) of the 1 1/2" background squares and draw a diagonal line corner to corner on the back. Align a square on the Blue/Green 2" x 4 1/2" rectangles. Make sure one is lined up to the upper right corner, lining up the edges and the other one to the lower right corner.  Sew on the drawn line. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4" then press out to the triangle.  Now we have everything we need.

1)    Starting at the bottom of the 'E", sew the piece with the folded corner triangle on the lower right

         to the bottom of a 1 1/2" x 4 1/2" background rectangle. Press to the dark.

2)    Sew a 1 1/2" square to the end of the 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" Blue/Green rectangle. Press to the dark.

3)    Sew the piece from Step 2 to the top of the assemble from Step 1. Press to the dark. 

4)     Sew anothe 1 1/2" background piece and press to the dark.

5)    sew on the 2" x 4 1/2' with the folded corner on the upper right ahdn corner to the top. Press to

        the dark.

6)     Sew the 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" Blue/Green rectangle to the left side. Press to the dark.

7)    Sew a 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" sashing strip to each side of the center unit made in Step 6.Press out to 

        the sashing strips.

8)    Sew a sashing strip with Red/Pink cornerstones to the top and the bottom. Press out to the 

        sashing strips.

9)    Press your block well so it is nice and flat. It should measure 10 1/2" square.

I hope you are in love with your 'LOVE' blocks! Next week we will make the 'X' blocks and the Heart blocks so stay tuned! If yu have any problems with anything or find a mistake, please let me know or reach out if you need some help with the blocks. sue@dragonflyfiberart.com.

Until Next Week

Best

Sue

Autumn Leaves Table Runner Free Pattern

 Hello Everyone!

I a new, fun Autumn project for you.  It is called Autumn Leaves and it is a lovely table runner to grace your homes for the season.  

I really had a lot of fun making this one.  The leaves are super simple and the border is all flying geese.  In the instruction, the fast four method of making flying geese is detailed.  I had a little fun with reversing the colors on a few of them so we have geese flying and chasing, creating the chevron effect.  I couldn't decide which I like better so I did one side traditional geese and the other side the chevron geese.  

Here is a close up of the leaf block.  These blocks finish at 10" so you can easily make your runner as long or short as you like or even make some matching placemats simply by adding geese to the right and left sides!

I hope you enjoy making it as much as I did!

Autumn Leaves Runner Instructions

Happy Fall!

Sue

Dragonfly Fiberart Pattern Company  www.dragonflyfiberart.com 

 Half Square Triangle Fun

There are so many different ways to make a half square triangle. Tonight on my sampler group sew, we explored a couple of different ways and I thought it would be nice to post the cheater chart with the sizes to cut the square for 8 at a time. I have done the math for you up to 8" finished but if you need larger, the formula is there for your reference.  I always add a 'fudge factor' to my cut size. For example, we were sewing 2 1/2" half square triangles to finish at 2".  The chart tells me to cut a 5 3/4" square but I added 1/4" and cut two 6" squares.  This gave me a little wiggle room to trim to perfection in case my seams were not perfect.

Finished Block Size	Minimum Size of Squares To Cut:*	Trim Pieced Block To:
A	A x 2 + 1 ¾”	A + ½”
1”	3 ¾”	1 ½”
1 ½”	4 ¾”	2”
2”	5 ¾”	2 ½”
2 ½”	6 ¾”	3”
3”	7 ¾”	3 ½”
3 ½”	8 ¾”	4”
4”	9 ¾”	4 ½”
4 ½”	10 ¾”	5”
5”	11 ¾”	5 ½”
5 ½”	12 ¾”	6”
6”	13 ¾”	6 ½”
6 ½”	14 ¾”	7”
7”	15 ¾”	7 ½”
7 ½”	16 ¾”	8”
8”	17 ¾”	8 ½”

 *ADD ¼” to the cut size of the square to allow a little fudge factor for trimming to perfection!

Once you have cut the two contrasting squares, layer them right sides together.  Draw a line on the diagonals, corner to corner.  Your block should have an 'X' on it.  Sew 1/4" to either side of the lines.  (Sew lines are the Blue dotted lines on diagram)

Cut lines are the Solid Black lines on the diagram. When the sewing is completed, line up a ruler to cut vertically straight through the middle of the block.  Without moving the sections, now place the ruler horizontally through the center and cut.  Again without moving the sections, place your ruler on the diagonal line corner to corner and cut between your seam lines.  You now have 8 half square triangles. Tip:  If you have a spinning cutting mat, it will make the cutting easier.

Press open to the darker side.  Now square your triangles to perfection using the TRIM block dimension in the chart.  When sewn into the quilt, your block will be the Finished block dimension in the chart.  My favorite ruler for trimming is the BlocLoc ruler but any square ruler will work.  Just be sure you are lined up on the diagonal seam.

    

Happy Sewing!

Sue

PS.  Be sure to visit our web site for great patterns, rulers, tools and more!

Pretty Quilt As You Go Placemats From Scraps

 My quilt guilds often make placemats to donate to the Meals On Wheels program which delivers freshly made meals to folks in their homes that may need that extra bit of help.  I think it is a wonderful program and just think how happy those folks are to see the smiling face of the volunteer delivering that meal especially now when everyone is so isolated.  And also the happiness of a bright and cheerful placemat to line their tray and add that personal touch that says someone is thinking of me.  Sometimes these placemats are holiday themed and other times they are just a fun collection of fabrics meant to add some brightness to the day.

Here is a version I like to make as it is quick and pretty!  It also helps me use a bit of my scrap pile.  Actually, it doesn't even put a dent in it but it gives me joy to think it does as well as to make them. 😂

Need to gather our materials.  You will need some 2" strips of fabric in various colors.  You can use variable widths but we'll save those for another project I will show you.  I used batting scraps leftover from quilts, the trim offs after they are quilted.  Also some backing fabric.  Keep in mind that in quilt as you go (QAYG) your bobbin thread will show on the back so make sure it works with your backing fabric.

(1) fabric backing piece cut 14 1/2" x 19 1/2"

(1) batting piece 14 1/2" x 19 1/2"

(5) or (6) strips of fabric 2" x WOF or enough pieces to make the equivalent

(2) strips 2" or 2 1/4" wide x WOF for the binding

(1) 6" x 6" focus block for the center

Smooth out your batting piece and find the center.  Draw a vertical and a horizontal line though this point with a marking pen.  I used a blue water soluble pen but a Frixion would work fine as we won't need the lines after the center is placed. Place your backing fabric wrong side up on a flat surface.  Center the batting piece with the lines facing up on it.

Center your 6" x 6" focus fabric on the batting lining up each point on the drawn lines until the piece is centered. Place a pin or two near the center just to hold it in place.

Lay your first strip right sides together (RST) along one edge of the focus fabric making sure one corner is squared up.  Stitch along the edge using a 1/4" seam allowance.  Stop at the edge of the focus square. Take your scissors and trim off the excess even with the center square. Press the strip open.  I finger pressed as I went to save time or use an iron if convenient.

Place your strip on the opposite side from where you just finished sewing and sew 1/4" from that edge, stopping at the end of the focus block and trimming the excess. Press open.

Next place a strip on one of the sides not yet sewn and repeat the steps (sew, trim, press open).  Trim and repeat for the last side.

Continue working your way around placing the strips on opposite sides, sewing and trimming.

As you get closer to the edges of the placemat, the strips will be shorter and cut off at the edge of the batting.

Once all the strips cover the batting, your placemat should look something like this.

We will now trim down the placemat to it's final size, 14" x 19". Place a ruler that is at least 7" wide on the placemat, lining up the 7" line through the horizontal points on the center focus block.  Trim off the excess.  Flip the ruler and do the bottom the same way.  The height of the placemat should now be 14".

Now trim the width to 19". Place a ruler at least 10" wide on the placemat lining it up the 9 1/2" line to the top and bottom points on the center focus block.  Trim off the excess and repeat for the other side.

Your front and back should now look like this.  Trim any loose threads off of the back that may have been left behind.

Make a double fold binding and sew to the back of the placemat. Be sure to leave a 3" tail not sewn down on each end of the binding and cut on the diagonal.  Fold under about 1/4" on the edge of one of the ends. Tuck the unfolded raw end inside the one folded over and refold the binding neatly. Align to the edge of the placemat, make sure it is nice and tight and finish stitching down.  Fold the binding to the front and secure with wonder clips.  Fold your corners into nice neat miters and hold in place with a clip.  Now top stitch the binding in place.  

Thanks for sewing along with me!  Would love to see what you create.  Post it on the Dragonfly Show and Share on Facebook.

Happy Sewing

Sue