Cupids's Arrow Part III

 Hello Everone! 

Some fun and easy blocks to make this week. We are making the Heart Block, the Checkerboard Border blocks and the Heart Cornerstone blocks.

We will start with the Heart Block which is super easy. As we have to make (4) blocks, we can use some shortcut methods that will give us all our units at once.  We will be making 8 at a time HST units and 4 at a time flying geese.  Here is my fabric cut.

WOF - Width of Fabric   HST - Half Square Triangle    QST - Quarter Square Triangle

RST - Right Sides Together

Background:   Cut (3) 2 1/2" x WOF.  Subcut (16) 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" rectangles (sashing)

                        Cut (1) 8 1/4" square (for HST units)

                        Cut (1) 2 1/2" x WOF.  Subcut (8) 2 1/2" squares  (for geese units)

Mini Daisy Pink Valetine:  Cut (2) 2 1/2" x 22"    Subcut (16) 2 1/2" squares (for cornerstones)

Petals Red Salmon:    Cut (2) 1 1/2" x 22"    Subcut (4) 1 1/2" x 6 1/2" rectangles (for center)

                                    Cut (2) 4 1/4" squares (for geese)

                                   Cut (1) 8 1/4" square (for HST units)

HST Units Eight At A Time:  

Step 1:  Gather the 8 1/4" background square and Petals Red Salmon square. Place RST with

             the background square on top. Using a ruler, draw a diagonal line from corner to corner

             both directions or use your magic wand to create sew lines.  

Step 2:  Sew your seams in both directions. It should look like a 'double X' once sewn. Using a 

            ruler, cut between the sew lines in both directions. Do not move any pieces yet. Take 

            your ruler and cut horizontally though the center, then vertically through the center.

            This is much easier to do without moving your parts if you use a rotating cutting mat.

Step 3: You now have (8) HST units. Press (4) of the units to the Background fabric and (4) of the

            units to the Petals Red Salmon fabric. This way our HST units will nest together. Square 

            your HST units to 3 1/2" using your favorite method. We will be using two for each heart 

            block. I used my Studio 180 Tucker Trimmer I.

                                You now have (8) 3 1/2" unfinished (3" finished) HST units.

Flying Geese Four At A Time:  

Step 1:  Next gather the 4 1/4" Petals Red Salmon squares and the (8) 2 1/2" Background squares.

            We need a total of 8 flying geese (2 per block) and each square is going to give us 4 units.

Step 2: Place (2) 2 1/2" background squares RST on opposite corners of a 4 1/4" Petals Red 

            Salmon square. They will overlap in the center. Nudge these in a little bit from the edge,

            roughly a 1/16" or so. It helps us with a little fudge factor space.  Draw a line diagonally

            from corner to corner crossing both background pieces. Slip a pin in to make sure they 

            don't move when your are sewing them. Sew 1/4" to each side of the line. Cut in between

            your seam lines.

Step 3:  Because we will need our geese to have nested seams when sewn together, we need to 

            press away from the triangle for this first step and toward the Petals Salmon Red fabric.

            Make sure your press straight and do not distort the fabric. 

Step 4: Next we place another Background square on the new units we have created, nudging in 

            again about that 1/16th" from the edge. Draw a line, then sew 1/4" to each side. Cut 

            between the seams then press to the Backround fabric (to the triangle). 

Step 5: Each of tour geese should now have one wing pressed in and one wing pressed out.  

            Our geese need to be squared to 2" x 3 1/2".  I used the Studio 180 Wing Clipper ruler.

Sashing Units:

Step 1: Next we can add our cornerstone squares to the top and bottom block sashing pieces 

            so they will be ready to use. Gather (16) Pink/Red 2 1/2" squares and (8) 2 1/2" 

            x 6 1/2" background rectangles. I like to chain sew for efficiency whenever possible and 

            this is a great place to do so. Place a Red/Pink square RST on a background rectangle. 

            Line up the edges and sew using a 1/4" seam. Repeat this for all 8 units. Do not cut the 

            chains yet. Simply turn the last piece in the machine around and sew squares to the 

            remaining end. Press all seams in toward the background fabric.

Heart Block Assembly:

Step 1:  Now we can assemble the blocks. Sew (2) Geese units together nesting the seams. Press

             the  seam to the right. 

Step 2:  Sew the 2" x 6 1/2" Petals Red Salmon piece to the bottom. Press to strip. 

Step 3:  Sew (2) HST units together nesting the seams. add these to the bottom of the assembly 

             from above.  Press to the center strip.

Step 4:  Sew a 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" background strip to each side. Press to the sashing strip.

Step 5:  Sew a sashing strip with cornerstone units to the top and the bottom. Press the seams out

             to the sashing strips.

Square your blocks to 10 1/2" as needed. (4) Heart Blocks Made

Border Checkerboard Blocks

Background:   Cut (5) 2 1/2" x WOF.  Cut in half to get (10) strips approx 22" long

                        Cut (4) 1 1/2" x WOF    (checkerboard border sashing)

                       

Mini Daisy Pink Flamingo:  Cut (5) 2 1/2" x 22"   

Sprig Small Daisy:    Cut (5) 2 1/2" x 22"   

Step 1: Make strip sets using the 2 colors and the background strips. Press all seams to the darker

            color. Be careful when pressing not to distort your fabric or add a bow to the stripset. It 

            should be nice and straight. It should measure 4 1/2" x 22" approximately.

Step 2:  Cut 2 1/2" wide units from each strip set. You will have (40) of each color combination.

Step 3: Sew the 2 1/2" units together as shown below. You will have (10) each of blocks that start

            with opposite colors. 

Press seams in for the ones that start with background (top one in picture)

Press seams out for the ones that start with a colored square (bottom one in picture)

NOTE:  This is an update. Instead of sewing the individual  1 1/2" strips, sew the checkerboard border pieces together first, measure then cut the 1 1/2" x WOF sashing to size. In a perfect world, this measures 40 1/2".  Press out to the background strip. Each checkerboard border has 2 each of the blocks. Rows always start with a checkerboard block that has a solid color top left.  Blocks alternate.

Cornerstone Heart Blocks:  

Our final units for this week are the Cornerstone Heart Blocks.  These are super simple as well. We are making HST units and some simple folded corner units.

Background:    Cut (1) 3 1/2" x WOF    Subcut (4) 3 1/2" squares (HST units)

                         Cut (1) 2" x WOF    Subcut (8) 2" squares and (8) 1 1/2" squares (Folded Corners)

Medium Daisy Multi:  Cut (4) 3 1/2" squares,  (8) 2" x 3" rectangles,  (8) 1 1/2" x 3" rectangles

Step1: Place the 3 1/2" Baclgrund square on top of the Medium Daisy Multi squares RST.  Draw

            a diagonal line corner to corner and sew on either side of the line or use your magic wand

            to create sew line.

Step 2: Cut in half bewteen the stitch lines and press (4) to the Background fabric and (4) to the

            Multi Daisy fabric so that our seams wll nest.  

Step 3: Square to 3" square.  (8) HST units made.

The upper part of the heart is made with two different size folder corner units.  Gather the rest of your pieces.

Step 1: Draw a diagonal line corner to corner on the back of all the Background 2" and 1 1/2" 

            squares. The drawn line is the sew line. 

Step 2:  Line up the squares on the corners of the corresponding side rectangles. We need 

            opposites so be certain to check that you have (4) of each with the diagonal line running

            left to right and (4) that are right to left.

Step 3: Sew ON the diagonal line. trim the seam allowance to 1/4". Press the seam on half to 

            the Background fabric and on half to the Medium Daisy Multi fabric so that our seams 

            will nest.

We are now ready to se our blocks.  Layout your units in order.

Step 4: Sew the HST units together and press the seam to the right.

Step 5: Sew the upper folded corner units together in pairs of a small unit and large unit, 

            making sure the seams nest. 

Step 6: Sew the units from Step 5 together and press the seams to the left.

            Sew this to the top of the HST assembly from Step 4.  Press the seam up toward the

            folded corner units. Square to 5 1/2" as needed. Make (4) Cornerstone Hearts.

We now have all our main blocks completed. Next week we will make the Arrow Border and assemble our quilt.  If you would like to get a jumpstart on the row assembly, simply sew the blocks in rows as per the quilt image below starting and ending each row with a Checkerboard Block. Alternate the pressing of the seams on each row so that seams will nest when joined.

Until Next Week

Best

Sue

Cupid's Arrow Part II

 Hello Everyone!

This week we are sewing the lovely star crossed block. 

First, let's cut out pieces.  I used three different fat quarters plus the full width of fabric (WOF) white background for this block. My fat quarters had a lot of amazing color variation in them which gave dimension to my blocks. I am very happy with how they came out.  I am still working from the Island Batik Flower Pot group. Where I indicate 22" as the width, I am simply cutting the width of the fat qarter. It coud be 21 or 21 1/2" or 22 1/2". It doesn't matter.  There is plenty of fabric.

WOF - Width of Fabric   HST - Half Square Triangle    QST - Quarter Square Triangle

RST - Right Sides Together

Background:   Cut (4) 2 1/2" x WOF.  Subcut (64) 2 1/2" squares

                        Cut (1) 3 1/2" x WOF.  Subcut (8) 3 1/2" squares (for QST units)

                        Cut (3) 3" x WOF.  Subcut (32) 3" squares  (for HST units)

Sprig With Small Daisy:  Cut (5) 3" x 22"    Subcut (32) 3" squares (for star point HST units)

Petals Red Daiquiri:    Cut (2) x 22"    Subcut (8) 3 1/2" squares (for QST units)

                                    Cut (3) 3" x 22"    Subcut (16) 3" squares

Thyme w/Daisies Multi:  Cut (5) 2 1/2" x 22"    Subcut (40) 2 1/2" squares

Step1:  HST Units - We will make thes the same way we did for the LOVE blocks. Gather (32) Background squres and (32) Sprig with Small Daisy.  Draw a line on the back of the Background squares or even easier, udse your magic want. Place RST on the Sprig with Small Daisy blocks and sew 1/4" to either side of the line or if using a magic wand, sew on the lines. Cut apart through the center then press open to the dark. Square each to 2 1/2" square.  (64) HST units made.

Step 2:  QST Units - We start out with HST units then divide the block once more to create the QST unit. Gather (8) 3 1/2" Background squres nd (8) 3 1/2" Petals Red Daiquiri.  Follow the same technique as Step 1 to create (16 HST units. Gather the (3) Petals Red Daiquiri squares. Draw a line on the back same as we have done for the HST units. Place it RST on top of the HST units just created. The lines that you will be sewing should cross the seam, so in other words, the new seams will be perpindicular to the seam on the HST forming a cross. Sew then cut apart.  Square these units to 2 1/2". (32) QST units made.

Draw a line and sew 1/4" to each side or use the Magic Wand to draw sew line

Sew then cut the HST units apart between the seam lines.

Press open to the dark. Place the 3" square on top of the HST just made and draw a line or use the Magic Wand to draw sew line. The new seam crosses the seam on the HST. You seams will be like an X

Sew the same as the HST units then cut apart.  Press to the dark. Square the QST unit to 2 1/2".

Step 3:  Layout all the remaining squares, the HST units and the QST uits into rows as below.  Using a 1/4" seam allowance, sew each row together. Press your seams as per the diagram below, Join your rows together and press as indicated below.  Make (8) Blocks.  Square your blocks as needed to 10 1/2" being careful not to lose your points.

Voila!  Our Star Crossed Block is complete. Next week we will make hearts and arrows! 

Autumn Leaves Table Runner Free Pattern

 Hello Everyone!

I a new, fun Autumn project for you.  It is called Autumn Leaves and it is a lovely table runner to grace your homes for the season.  

I really had a lot of fun making this one.  The leaves are super simple and the border is all flying geese.  In the instruction, the fast four method of making flying geese is detailed.  I had a little fun with reversing the colors on a few of them so we have geese flying and chasing, creating the chevron effect.  I couldn't decide which I like better so I did one side traditional geese and the other side the chevron geese.  

Here is a close up of the leaf block.  These blocks finish at 10" so you can easily make your runner as long or short as you like or even make some matching placemats simply by adding geese to the right and left sides!

I hope you enjoy making it as much as I did!

Autumn Leaves Runner Instructions

Happy Fall!

Sue

Dragonfly Fiberart Pattern Company  www.dragonflyfiberart.com 

 Half Square Triangle Fun

There are so many different ways to make a half square triangle. Tonight on my sampler group sew, we explored a couple of different ways and I thought it would be nice to post the cheater chart with the sizes to cut the square for 8 at a time. I have done the math for you up to 8" finished but if you need larger, the formula is there for your reference.  I always add a 'fudge factor' to my cut size. For example, we were sewing 2 1/2" half square triangles to finish at 2".  The chart tells me to cut a 5 3/4" square but I added 1/4" and cut two 6" squares.  This gave me a little wiggle room to trim to perfection in case my seams were not perfect.

Finished Block Size	Minimum Size of Squares To Cut:*	Trim Pieced Block To:
A	A x 2 + 1 ¾”	A + ½”
1”	3 ¾”	1 ½”
1 ½”	4 ¾”	2”
2”	5 ¾”	2 ½”
2 ½”	6 ¾”	3”
3”	7 ¾”	3 ½”
3 ½”	8 ¾”	4”
4”	9 ¾”	4 ½”
4 ½”	10 ¾”	5”
5”	11 ¾”	5 ½”
5 ½”	12 ¾”	6”
6”	13 ¾”	6 ½”
6 ½”	14 ¾”	7”
7”	15 ¾”	7 ½”
7 ½”	16 ¾”	8”
8”	17 ¾”	8 ½”

 *ADD ¼” to the cut size of the square to allow a little fudge factor for trimming to perfection!

Once you have cut the two contrasting squares, layer them right sides together.  Draw a line on the diagonals, corner to corner.  Your block should have an 'X' on it.  Sew 1/4" to either side of the lines.  (Sew lines are the Blue dotted lines on diagram)

Cut lines are the Solid Black lines on the diagram. When the sewing is completed, line up a ruler to cut vertically straight through the middle of the block.  Without moving the sections, now place the ruler horizontally through the center and cut.  Again without moving the sections, place your ruler on the diagonal line corner to corner and cut between your seam lines.  You now have 8 half square triangles. Tip:  If you have a spinning cutting mat, it will make the cutting easier.

Press open to the darker side.  Now square your triangles to perfection using the TRIM block dimension in the chart.  When sewn into the quilt, your block will be the Finished block dimension in the chart.  My favorite ruler for trimming is the BlocLoc ruler but any square ruler will work.  Just be sure you are lined up on the diagonal seam.

    

Happy Sewing!

Sue

PS.  Be sure to visit our web site for great patterns, rulers, tools and more!

Pretty Quilt As You Go Placemats From Scraps

 My quilt guilds often make placemats to donate to the Meals On Wheels program which delivers freshly made meals to folks in their homes that may need that extra bit of help.  I think it is a wonderful program and just think how happy those folks are to see the smiling face of the volunteer delivering that meal especially now when everyone is so isolated.  And also the happiness of a bright and cheerful placemat to line their tray and add that personal touch that says someone is thinking of me.  Sometimes these placemats are holiday themed and other times they are just a fun collection of fabrics meant to add some brightness to the day.

Here is a version I like to make as it is quick and pretty!  It also helps me use a bit of my scrap pile.  Actually, it doesn't even put a dent in it but it gives me joy to think it does as well as to make them. 😂

Need to gather our materials.  You will need some 2" strips of fabric in various colors.  You can use variable widths but we'll save those for another project I will show you.  I used batting scraps leftover from quilts, the trim offs after they are quilted.  Also some backing fabric.  Keep in mind that in quilt as you go (QAYG) your bobbin thread will show on the back so make sure it works with your backing fabric.

(1) fabric backing piece cut 14 1/2" x 19 1/2"

(1) batting piece 14 1/2" x 19 1/2"

(5) or (6) strips of fabric 2" x WOF or enough pieces to make the equivalent

(2) strips 2" or 2 1/4" wide x WOF for the binding

(1) 6" x 6" focus block for the center

Smooth out your batting piece and find the center.  Draw a vertical and a horizontal line though this point with a marking pen.  I used a blue water soluble pen but a Frixion would work fine as we won't need the lines after the center is placed. Place your backing fabric wrong side up on a flat surface.  Center the batting piece with the lines facing up on it.

Center your 6" x 6" focus fabric on the batting lining up each point on the drawn lines until the piece is centered. Place a pin or two near the center just to hold it in place.

Lay your first strip right sides together (RST) along one edge of the focus fabric making sure one corner is squared up.  Stitch along the edge using a 1/4" seam allowance.  Stop at the edge of the focus square. Take your scissors and trim off the excess even with the center square. Press the strip open.  I finger pressed as I went to save time or use an iron if convenient.

Place your strip on the opposite side from where you just finished sewing and sew 1/4" from that edge, stopping at the end of the focus block and trimming the excess. Press open.

Next place a strip on one of the sides not yet sewn and repeat the steps (sew, trim, press open).  Trim and repeat for the last side.

Continue working your way around placing the strips on opposite sides, sewing and trimming.

As you get closer to the edges of the placemat, the strips will be shorter and cut off at the edge of the batting.

Once all the strips cover the batting, your placemat should look something like this.

We will now trim down the placemat to it's final size, 14" x 19". Place a ruler that is at least 7" wide on the placemat, lining up the 7" line through the horizontal points on the center focus block.  Trim off the excess.  Flip the ruler and do the bottom the same way.  The height of the placemat should now be 14".

Now trim the width to 19". Place a ruler at least 10" wide on the placemat lining it up the 9 1/2" line to the top and bottom points on the center focus block.  Trim off the excess and repeat for the other side.

Your front and back should now look like this.  Trim any loose threads off of the back that may have been left behind.

Make a double fold binding and sew to the back of the placemat. Be sure to leave a 3" tail not sewn down on each end of the binding and cut on the diagonal.  Fold under about 1/4" on the edge of one of the ends. Tuck the unfolded raw end inside the one folded over and refold the binding neatly. Align to the edge of the placemat, make sure it is nice and tight and finish stitching down.  Fold the binding to the front and secure with wonder clips.  Fold your corners into nice neat miters and hold in place with a clip.  Now top stitch the binding in place.  

Thanks for sewing along with me!  Would love to see what you create.  Post it on the Dragonfly Show and Share on Facebook.

Happy Sewing

Sue