Cupid's Arrow - The Finish

 Hello Everyone

We have everything made so let's put it together!  The only things we need to cut will be the outer borders. Then of course you will need to decide on backing and binding. We'll complete here with just the top but I will post mine once it is quilted and I would encourage you to do the same. 

Below is an exploded assembly diagram.

Sew the 4 rows across starting and ending with a Checkerboard square.

1st Row:  Checkerboard Block, 'L' Block, Star, Heart, Star, Checkerboard Block

2nd Row: Checkerboard Block, Sar, 'O' Block, Star. Heart, Checkerboard Block

3rd Row: Checkerboard Block, Heart, Star, 'V' Block, Star, Checkerboard Block

4th Row: Checkerboard Block, Star, Heart, Star 'E' Blcok, Checkerboard Block

Next, measure the sides of your quilt. Sew a 1 1/2" wide by your length strip to each side.  In a perfect world, this measurement is 40 1/2". 

Take the remaining 8 Checkerboard blocks and sew them into rows of (4) each. Use the diagram for reference to insure they are in the correct order.

Sew a 1 1/2" wide x 40 1/2" strip to the top of each. Sew the small heart blocks to each end.  All the hearts are facing up so be sure to sew them correctly nto the Checkerboard Borders just made.

Sew these borders to the top and bottom. To help the seams nest, it is easy to spin some of the seams on the Checkerboard Blocks so that they match the center quilt rows.

Cut (4) strips from Background 2 1/2" x WOF.  Subcut from these strips (4) 2 1/2" x 12 1/2" and (6) 2 1/2" x 10 1/2" pieces.

The Arrow side borders are:  Arrow Block 2 1/2" x 10 1/2" Background, Arrow Block, 2 1/2" x 10 1/2" Background., Arrow Block. Make the borders, then sew in place. Press away from the border.

The Arrow top and bottom borders are 2 1/2" x 12 1/2" Background, Arrow, 2 1/2" x 10 1/2", Arrow, 2 1/2" x 12 1/2". Sew in place then press away from the border.

Outside Border:

Background:    Cut (6) 2 1/2" x WOF

Sew (3) strips together on a 45 degree angle. Measure the sides of yor top and cut the border pieces from the strips et. Sew in place and press out to the border. 

Repeat for the top and bottom borders.

In a perfect world, the side borders would measure 54 1/2" and the top/bottom borders would measure 58 1/2".

You are finished! Layer, quilt and bind as desired. I am quilting mine with a swirl pattern and adding a pink and white flanged border. I will cover flanged machine binding in another blog so stay tuned.

Thanks for dsewing along!

Sue

Cupid's Arrow Part IV - The Arrow

Hello Everyone

 This was to be our finish for the quilt but I would like to take a bit of time with the Arrow Block and put the sewing rows together and finishing in a separtae post today. The arrow is amazingly cute but does have a few small parts. It was fairly easy to make you just need to take your time. For those that do not like sewing small pieces, I am including a foundation for paper piecing if that is your preference.

Download the Paper Piecing Foundation Here

For my arrow, I am using Sprig With Small Daisies Acorn Gold still in the lovely Island Batik Flower Pot collection. It is a lovely gold color with pink sprigs and daisies. How Perfect!

Cutting: I am working from 44" wide for Background and a fat quarter for my color.

Background:    (5) 1"x WOF    Split (9) the strips in half  (9) 1" x 22" approx  Subcut from the                                         remaining strip (10) 1" x 2 1/2" rectangles.
                        (1) 3 1/2" x WOF (I had a piece of 3 1/2" left over from a block) 
                        Subcut (3) 3 1/2" squares

                        (1) 2" x WOF    Subcut (20) 2" squares (I had plenty of pieces from the blocks 

                        that I used rather than a strip)

Acorn Gold:    (1) 3 1/2" x 22"    Subcut (5) 3 1/2" squares

                        (2) 2" x 22"          Subcut (12) 2" squares

                        (4) 1 1/2" x 22"    

                        (2) 1" x 22"

Flying Geese Four At A Time: 

We are going to make 2 separate sets of geese. The arrow head has a gold body and white wings.  The arrow tail has one the same but also needs one that has a white body and gold wings, so just opposite.

 

Step 1: Gather the (5) 3 1/2"Acorn Gold squares and the (20) 2" Background squares.

            We need a total of 20 flying geese (2 per block) in this combination and each square is going

            to give us 4 units.

Step 2: Place (2) 2" background squares RST on opposite corners of a 3 1/2" Acorn Gold square.

            They will overlap in the center. Nudge these in a little bit from the edge,

            roughly a 1/16" or so. It helps us with a little fudge factor space.  Draw a line diagonally

            from corner to corner crossing both background pieces. Slip a pin in to make sure they 

            don't move when your are sewing them. Sew 1/4" to each side of the line. Cut in between

            your seam lines.

Step 3: Carefully press to the triangles, away from the body. Be sure your press straight and do 

            not distort the fabric. They are small. :-)

Step 4: Next we place another Background square on the new units we have created, nudging in 

            again about that 1/16th" from the edge. Draw a line, then sew 1/4" to each side. Cut 

            between the seams then press to the Backround fabric (to the triangle). 

Step 5: Our geese need to be squared to 1 1/2" x 2 1/2".  I used the Studio 180 Wing Clipper ruler.

            You should now have (20) flying geese with white wings and Acorn Gold bodies.

Now repeat Steps 1 through 5 with the (3) 3 1/2" Background squares and the (12) Acorn Gold 2" squares. You will have 2 extra geese as we only need (10) in this combination but it is the easiest and most efficient way to make them.

Strip Sets for Arrow Body & Tip:

Step 1: Gather the (4) 1 1/2" Acorn Gold strips and (8) 1" x 22" Background strips.

            Make strip sets using the 1 colored strip and 2 background strips. Press all in to the Acorn

            Gold strip in the center. Be careful when pressing not to distort your fabric or add a bow 

            to the stripset. It should be nice and straight. It should measure 2 1/2" x 22" approximately.

Step 2: Cut 6" wide units from each strip set. You will need (10) for the arrow main body.

Step 3: Gather the (2) 1" Acorn Gold strips and (2) Background strips.  Sew the strips together

             and press to the Acorn Gold strip. It should measue 1 1/2" x 22" approx.

Step 4: Cut (10) 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" units from the strips. 

We are now ready to assemble our arrows. Sew the pieces in order as they are laid out below, starting at the tail of the arrow.  Follow the direction of the arrows on the block diagram for the pressing. Make (10) arrow blocks. These should measure 2 1/2" x 10 1/2".

Now we have all our pieces made to start assembling our quilt. I will do that in the next blog post.

Happy Sewing!

Sue

#islandbatik #oliso #studio180design #dragonflyfiberart #aurifil

 

Cupids's Arrow Part III

 Hello Everone! 

Some fun and easy blocks to make this week. We are making the Heart Block, the Checkerboard Border blocks and the Heart Cornerstone blocks.

We will start with the Heart Block which is super easy. As we have to make (4) blocks, we can use some shortcut methods that will give us all our units at once.  We will be making 8 at a time HST units and 4 at a time flying geese.  Here is my fabric cut.

WOF - Width of Fabric   HST - Half Square Triangle    QST - Quarter Square Triangle

RST - Right Sides Together

Background:   Cut (3) 2 1/2" x WOF.  Subcut (16) 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" rectangles (sashing)

                        Cut (1) 8 1/4" square (for HST units)

                        Cut (1) 2 1/2" x WOF.  Subcut (8) 2 1/2" squares  (for geese units)

Mini Daisy Pink Valetine:  Cut (2) 2 1/2" x 22"    Subcut (16) 2 1/2" squares (for cornerstones)

Petals Red Salmon:    Cut (2) 1 1/2" x 22"    Subcut (4) 1 1/2" x 6 1/2" rectangles (for center)

                                    Cut (2) 4 1/4" squares (for geese)

                                   Cut (1) 8 1/4" square (for HST units)

HST Units Eight At A Time:  

Step 1:  Gather the 8 1/4" background square and Petals Red Salmon square. Place RST with

             the background square on top. Using a ruler, draw a diagonal line from corner to corner

             both directions or use your magic wand to create sew lines.  

Step 2:  Sew your seams in both directions. It should look like a 'double X' once sewn. Using a 

            ruler, cut between the sew lines in both directions. Do not move any pieces yet. Take 

            your ruler and cut horizontally though the center, then vertically through the center.

            This is much easier to do without moving your parts if you use a rotating cutting mat.

Step 3: You now have (8) HST units. Press (4) of the units to the Background fabric and (4) of the

            units to the Petals Red Salmon fabric. This way our HST units will nest together. Square 

            your HST units to 3 1/2" using your favorite method. We will be using two for each heart 

            block. I used my Studio 180 Tucker Trimmer I.

                                You now have (8) 3 1/2" unfinished (3" finished) HST units.

Flying Geese Four At A Time:  

Step 1:  Next gather the 4 1/4" Petals Red Salmon squares and the (8) 2 1/2" Background squares.

            We need a total of 8 flying geese (2 per block) and each square is going to give us 4 units.

Step 2: Place (2) 2 1/2" background squares RST on opposite corners of a 4 1/4" Petals Red 

            Salmon square. They will overlap in the center. Nudge these in a little bit from the edge,

            roughly a 1/16" or so. It helps us with a little fudge factor space.  Draw a line diagonally

            from corner to corner crossing both background pieces. Slip a pin in to make sure they 

            don't move when your are sewing them. Sew 1/4" to each side of the line. Cut in between

            your seam lines.

Step 3:  Because we will need our geese to have nested seams when sewn together, we need to 

            press away from the triangle for this first step and toward the Petals Salmon Red fabric.

            Make sure your press straight and do not distort the fabric. 

Step 4: Next we place another Background square on the new units we have created, nudging in 

            again about that 1/16th" from the edge. Draw a line, then sew 1/4" to each side. Cut 

            between the seams then press to the Backround fabric (to the triangle). 

Step 5: Each of tour geese should now have one wing pressed in and one wing pressed out.  

            Our geese need to be squared to 2" x 3 1/2".  I used the Studio 180 Wing Clipper ruler.

Sashing Units:

Step 1: Next we can add our cornerstone squares to the top and bottom block sashing pieces 

            so they will be ready to use. Gather (16) Pink/Red 2 1/2" squares and (8) 2 1/2" 

            x 6 1/2" background rectangles. I like to chain sew for efficiency whenever possible and 

            this is a great place to do so. Place a Red/Pink square RST on a background rectangle. 

            Line up the edges and sew using a 1/4" seam. Repeat this for all 8 units. Do not cut the 

            chains yet. Simply turn the last piece in the machine around and sew squares to the 

            remaining end. Press all seams in toward the background fabric.

Heart Block Assembly:

Step 1:  Now we can assemble the blocks. Sew (2) Geese units together nesting the seams. Press

             the  seam to the right. 

Step 2:  Sew the 2" x 6 1/2" Petals Red Salmon piece to the bottom. Press to strip. 

Step 3:  Sew (2) HST units together nesting the seams. add these to the bottom of the assembly 

             from above.  Press to the center strip.

Step 4:  Sew a 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" background strip to each side. Press to the sashing strip.

Step 5:  Sew a sashing strip with cornerstone units to the top and the bottom. Press the seams out

             to the sashing strips.

Square your blocks to 10 1/2" as needed. (4) Heart Blocks Made

Border Checkerboard Blocks

Background:   Cut (5) 2 1/2" x WOF.  Cut in half to get (10) strips approx 22" long

                        Cut (4) 1 1/2" x WOF    (checkerboard border sashing)

                       

Mini Daisy Pink Flamingo:  Cut (5) 2 1/2" x 22"   

Sprig Small Daisy:    Cut (5) 2 1/2" x 22"   

Step 1: Make strip sets using the 2 colors and the background strips. Press all seams to the darker

            color. Be careful when pressing not to distort your fabric or add a bow to the stripset. It 

            should be nice and straight. It should measure 4 1/2" x 22" approximately.

Step 2:  Cut 2 1/2" wide units from each strip set. You will have (40) of each color combination.

Step 3: Sew the 2 1/2" units together as shown below. You will have (10) each of blocks that start

            with opposite colors. 

Press seams in for the ones that start with background (top one in picture)

Press seams out for the ones that start with a colored square (bottom one in picture)

NOTE:  This is an update. Instead of sewing the individual  1 1/2" strips, sew the checkerboard border pieces together first, measure then cut the 1 1/2" x WOF sashing to size. In a perfect world, this measures 40 1/2".  Press out to the background strip. Each checkerboard border has 2 each of the blocks. Rows always start with a checkerboard block that has a solid color top left.  Blocks alternate.

Cornerstone Heart Blocks:  

Our final units for this week are the Cornerstone Heart Blocks.  These are super simple as well. We are making HST units and some simple folded corner units.

Background:    Cut (1) 3 1/2" x WOF    Subcut (4) 3 1/2" squares (HST units)

                         Cut (1) 2" x WOF    Subcut (8) 2" squares and (8) 1 1/2" squares (Folded Corners)

Medium Daisy Multi:  Cut (4) 3 1/2" squares,  (8) 2" x 3" rectangles,  (8) 1 1/2" x 3" rectangles

Step1: Place the 3 1/2" Baclgrund square on top of the Medium Daisy Multi squares RST.  Draw

            a diagonal line corner to corner and sew on either side of the line or use your magic wand

            to create sew line.

Step 2: Cut in half bewteen the stitch lines and press (4) to the Background fabric and (4) to the

            Multi Daisy fabric so that our seams wll nest.  

Step 3: Square to 3" square.  (8) HST units made.

The upper part of the heart is made with two different size folder corner units.  Gather the rest of your pieces.

Step 1: Draw a diagonal line corner to corner on the back of all the Background 2" and 1 1/2" 

            squares. The drawn line is the sew line. 

Step 2:  Line up the squares on the corners of the corresponding side rectangles. We need 

            opposites so be certain to check that you have (4) of each with the diagonal line running

            left to right and (4) that are right to left.

Step 3: Sew ON the diagonal line. trim the seam allowance to 1/4". Press the seam on half to 

            the Background fabric and on half to the Medium Daisy Multi fabric so that our seams 

            will nest.

We are now ready to se our blocks.  Layout your units in order.

Step 4: Sew the HST units together and press the seam to the right.

Step 5: Sew the upper folded corner units together in pairs of a small unit and large unit, 

            making sure the seams nest. 

Step 6: Sew the units from Step 5 together and press the seams to the left.

            Sew this to the top of the HST assembly from Step 4.  Press the seam up toward the

            folded corner units. Square to 5 1/2" as needed. Make (4) Cornerstone Hearts.

We now have all our main blocks completed. Next week we will make the Arrow Border and assemble our quilt.  If you would like to get a jumpstart on the row assembly, simply sew the blocks in rows as per the quilt image below starting and ending each row with a Checkerboard Block. Alternate the pressing of the seams on each row so that seams will nest when joined.

Until Next Week

Best

Sue

Cupid's Arrow Part II

 Hello Everyone!

This week we are sewing the lovely star crossed block. 

First, let's cut out pieces.  I used three different fat quarters plus the full width of fabric (WOF) white background for this block. My fat quarters had a lot of amazing color variation in them which gave dimension to my blocks. I am very happy with how they came out.  I am still working from the Island Batik Flower Pot group. Where I indicate 22" as the width, I am simply cutting the width of the fat qarter. It coud be 21 or 21 1/2" or 22 1/2". It doesn't matter.  There is plenty of fabric.

WOF - Width of Fabric   HST - Half Square Triangle    QST - Quarter Square Triangle

RST - Right Sides Together

Background:   Cut (4) 2 1/2" x WOF.  Subcut (64) 2 1/2" squares

                        Cut (1) 3 1/2" x WOF.  Subcut (8) 3 1/2" squares (for QST units)

                        Cut (3) 3" x WOF.  Subcut (32) 3" squares  (for HST units)

Sprig With Small Daisy:  Cut (5) 3" x 22"    Subcut (32) 3" squares (for star point HST units)

Petals Red Daiquiri:    Cut (2) x 22"    Subcut (8) 3 1/2" squares (for QST units)

                                    Cut (3) 3" x 22"    Subcut (16) 3" squares

Thyme w/Daisies Multi:  Cut (5) 2 1/2" x 22"    Subcut (40) 2 1/2" squares

Step1:  HST Units - We will make thes the same way we did for the LOVE blocks. Gather (32) Background squres and (32) Sprig with Small Daisy.  Draw a line on the back of the Background squares or even easier, udse your magic want. Place RST on the Sprig with Small Daisy blocks and sew 1/4" to either side of the line or if using a magic wand, sew on the lines. Cut apart through the center then press open to the dark. Square each to 2 1/2" square.  (64) HST units made.

Step 2:  QST Units - We start out with HST units then divide the block once more to create the QST unit. Gather (8) 3 1/2" Background squres nd (8) 3 1/2" Petals Red Daiquiri.  Follow the same technique as Step 1 to create (16 HST units. Gather the (3) Petals Red Daiquiri squares. Draw a line on the back same as we have done for the HST units. Place it RST on top of the HST units just created. The lines that you will be sewing should cross the seam, so in other words, the new seams will be perpindicular to the seam on the HST forming a cross. Sew then cut apart.  Square these units to 2 1/2". (32) QST units made.

Draw a line and sew 1/4" to each side or use the Magic Wand to draw sew line

Sew then cut the HST units apart between the seam lines.

Press open to the dark. Place the 3" square on top of the HST just made and draw a line or use the Magic Wand to draw sew line. The new seam crosses the seam on the HST. You seams will be like an X

Sew the same as the HST units then cut apart.  Press to the dark. Square the QST unit to 2 1/2".

Step 3:  Layout all the remaining squares, the HST units and the QST uits into rows as below.  Using a 1/4" seam allowance, sew each row together. Press your seams as per the diagram below, Join your rows together and press as indicated below.  Make (8) Blocks.  Square your blocks as needed to 10 1/2" being careful not to lose your points.

Voila!  Our Star Crossed Block is complete. Next week we will make hearts and arrows! 

Cupid's Arrow Sew-Along Part 1

 Cupid's Arrow Sew-Along

Hello Friends!

Today we start our fun Valentine's Day Sew Along. We will be making this cute little lap quilt or wall hanging in 4 different sessions.  The quilt is 58" x 58" so easy to manage and has a few simple blocks. But I'll try to show you some fun shortcuts and tips as we sew along.

I made mine super scrappy using a variety of fat quarters, about 10 different ones and 3 yards of background. You could certainly do it with a more planned pallete. So 1 yard each of two reds/pinks, a 1/2 yard of complementary like my teal and a 1/2 yard of gold would do it.  Island Batik gave me this great fat quarter bundle called Flower Pot so I pulled my colors from that. They also gave me the fabulous white background batik.

So for the first week we are going to make the four letter blocks. Easy Peasy!

I will be using 2 different fat quarters and full bolt width background fabric.

Background:  Cut (3) 2 1/2" x WOF strips   

                        Subcut from strips (16) 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" rectangles,  (1) 2 1/2" square

                        Cut (1) 3" x WOF strip.  Subcut (3) 3" squares, (2) 1 1/2" x 4 1/2", (3) 1 1/2" squares

                        Cut (1) 4 1/2" square   Cut (2) 4" squares

Pink/Red Fat Quarter: Cut (2) 2 1/2" x 22" strip.  Subcut from strips (16)  2 1/2" squares

Blue/Green Fat Quarter: (1)  3" x 22" strip.  Subcut (3) 3" squares

                                        (2)  2 1/2" x 22" strip.  Subcut (5) 2 1/2" squares, (2) 2 1/2" x 6 1/2"

                                        (1)  2" x 22" strip.  Subcut (2) 2" x 4 1/2" rectangles

                                        (1) 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" rectangles

                                        Cut (2) 4" squares

Now that we have all out pieces cut, let's make the components needed for the letters then we can go right to assembly.  

First we need to make some half square triangle units (HST) for the letters L. O and V.  Locate the 3" background squares, the 3" blue/green squares, the 4" background squares and the 4" blue/green squares.  You can draw a diagonal line corner to corner on the back of the background squares and sew 1/4" to either side of the line or if you have a Studio 180 Magic Wand, line it up corner to corner and draw the sew lines. I like this method better as I find it to be more accurate than sewing a quarter inch to either side of a drawn line. You can also skip drawing any lines if you use the diagonal seam tape on your machine. It gives you the perfect guide for feeding in squares on point. Whichever method you choose, go ahead and sew then cut apart between the stitch lines. Press open to the dark fabric. Square as needed to 2 1/2" and 3 1/2".  You should have (6) of the 2 1/2" and (4) of the 3 1/2" HST units made.

Next we can add our cornerstone squares to the top and bottom block sashing pieces so they will be ready to use. Gather (16) Pink/Red 2 1/2" squares and (8) 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" background rectangles. I like to chain sew for efficiency whenever possible and this is a great place to do so. Place a Red/Pink square RST on a background rectangle. Line up the edges and sew using a 1/4" seam. Repeat this for all 16 units. Do not cut the chains yet. Simply turn the last piece in the machine around and sew squares to the remaining end. Press all seams in toward the background fabric.

Now we have all the pieces we need to assemble the letters so we will start with 'L'.  Gather (2) top and bottom sashing units with the Red/Pink squares, (2) 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" background rectangles, (1) 4 1/2" background sqyuare, (1) Blue/Green 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" rectangle, (1) Blue/Green 2 1/2" square and one of the Blue/Green HST units you made.

For this block, as we will for all of the blocks, we will sew the center pieces then work our way out to the sashing. 

1)    Sew the 2 1/2" Blue Green square to the HST unit. Press the seam to the square

2)    Sew the 4 1/2" background square to the top of assemble just made in Step 1. Press to the                       background square.

3)    Sew the Blue/Green 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" rectangle to the left side of the Step 2 assembly. Press out 

       to the Blue/Green rectangle.

4)    Sew a backround 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" to both the right and the left sides of the Step 3 assembly.  

       Press out to the background sashing.

5)    Sew a sashing strip with Red/Pink cornerstones to the top and the bottom. Press out to the 

        sashing strips.

6)    Press your block well so it is nice and flat. It should measure 10 1/2" square.

Next in line is the 'O' block. this one is super easy.  Gather (4) Blue/Green 2 1/2" squares as well as (4) 2 1/2" HST units.  You will also need a background 2 1/2" square, 2 of the 2 1/2" x 6 1//2" sashing rectangles as well as a top and bottom sashing piece with the Red/Pink squares.  Ignore my mistake in the layout below, I have an HST turned the wrong way LOL! So be sure to turn that lower right one the correct way.

1)    Sew an HST unit to each side of a Blue/Green 2 1/2" square. Press in toward the center square.                Make two rows like this.  (top and bottom of the 'O')

2)    Sew the remaining (2) Blue/Green 2 1/2" squares to each side of  the 2 1/2" background 

       square. Press out to the Blue/Green squares.

3)    Sew the rows from steps 1 and 2 together.  Press in to the center row.

4)    Sew a 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" sashing strip to each side of the center unit made in Step 3.Press out to 

        the sashing strips.

5)    Sew a sashing strip with Red/Pink cornerstones to the top and the bottom. Press out to the 

        sashing strips.

6)    Press your block well so it is nice and flat. It should measure 10 1/2" square.

Ok we are moving right along to 'V' block.  This one is also super easy. Gather the (4) 3 1/2" HST units, (2) 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" background sashing strips and (2) of the top and bottom sashing strips with the Red/Pink corners.

In order for our seams to nest, repress (2) the HST units away from the dark toward the background. I could of done these as flying geese but didn't think of it until I had already cut everything. Oh well!  HST units are easy.

1)    Sew the HST units together as shown in the picture. Be sure to pair them with seams going

         in opposite directions. You will have two rows made.

2)    Press one seam to the right and one to the left then sew the rows together as shown above.

3)    Sew a 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" sashing strip to each side of the center unit made in Step 3.Press out to 

        the sashing strips.

4)     Sew a sashing strip with Red/Pink cornerstones to the top and the bottom. Press out to the 

        sashing strips.

5)    Press your block well so it is nice and flat. It should measure 10 1/2" square.  That was easy!

Last but not least we have the 'E' block. This one has a few more pieces but is easy as well.  Gather (3) background 1 1/2" squares, (2) background 1 1/2" x 4 1/2" rectangles, (1) 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" Blue/Green rectangle, (2) 2" x 4 1/2" Blue/Green rectangles, (1) 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" Blue/Green rectangle, the remaining (2) background sashing pieces and the remaining (2) top and bottom sashing pieces.

We we are going to make some folded corners first. These are very easy if you have never done them. Sometimes people call it 'snow balling' the corner but folded corner is more accurate.

Take (2) of the 1 1/2" background squares and draw a diagonal line corner to corner on the back. Align a square on the Blue/Green 2" x 4 1/2" rectangles. Make sure one is lined up to the upper right corner, lining up the edges and the other one to the lower right corner.  Sew on the drawn line. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4" then press out to the triangle.  Now we have everything we need.

1)    Starting at the bottom of the 'E", sew the piece with the folded corner triangle on the lower right

         to the bottom of a 1 1/2" x 4 1/2" background rectangle. Press to the dark.

2)    Sew a 1 1/2" square to the end of the 1 1/2" x 3 1/2" Blue/Green rectangle. Press to the dark.

3)    Sew the piece from Step 2 to the top of the assemble from Step 1. Press to the dark. 

4)     Sew anothe 1 1/2" background piece and press to the dark.

5)    sew on the 2" x 4 1/2' with the folded corner on the upper right ahdn corner to the top. Press to

        the dark.

6)     Sew the 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" Blue/Green rectangle to the left side. Press to the dark.

7)    Sew a 2 1/2" x 6 1/2" sashing strip to each side of the center unit made in Step 6.Press out to 

        the sashing strips.

8)    Sew a sashing strip with Red/Pink cornerstones to the top and the bottom. Press out to the 

        sashing strips.

9)    Press your block well so it is nice and flat. It should measure 10 1/2" square.

I hope you are in love with your 'LOVE' blocks! Next week we will make the 'X' blocks and the Heart blocks so stay tuned! If yu have any problems with anything or find a mistake, please let me know or reach out if you need some help with the blocks. sue@dragonflyfiberart.com.

Until Next Week

Best

Sue